Between authenticity and imitation: European perfumes, retail practices, and consumer experience in the late Ottoman Empire


Yasa A. E.

History of Retailing and Consumption, 2026 (Scopus) identifier

  • Yayın Türü: Makale / Tam Makale
  • Basım Tarihi: 2026
  • Doi Numarası: 10.1080/2373518x.2026.2646039
  • Dergi Adı: History of Retailing and Consumption
  • Derginin Tarandığı İndeksler: Scopus
  • Anahtar Kelimeler: democratization of consumption, imitation and counterfeiting, misleading marketing, Ottoman consumer culture, perfume trade, retail mediation
  • Orta Doğu Teknik Üniversitesi Adresli: Evet

Özet

This article analyzes how European perfumes circulated in the late Ottoman Empire through retail mediation. It argues that the ‘democratization’ of scent was not a simple effect of lower prices but a negotiated outcome of marketing at the point of sale, across uneven infrastructures, local olfactory traditions, gendered norms, and unequal consumer knowledge. Using consular reports, trade journals, archival correspondence, advertisements, and material evidence, it shows that misleading marketing was structural: labels were altered, sacred or imperial imagery added, brand names mimicked, bottles reused, and ‘Paris’ invoked to manufacture value and sustain hierarchies of refinement and modernity. Under weak trademark enforcement and information asymmetry, markets operated through graded equivalence rather than strict authenticity. Imitation and substitution, finally, reflected both opportunism and broad demand for affordable equivalents, revealing active consumers and retailers in shaping global goods’ meanings.